The days are finally longer again, and we can feel the sun’s rays pleasantly warming our skin. The immediate positive effects of sunlight are obvious: improved mood and stimulated vitamin D production. At the same time, there is a clear downside – especially when it comes to the long-term biological effects on the skin. In this interview, Dr. Ludger Kolbe explains why we should think about daily sun protection not only in summer, but already at this time of year.
Ludger: The two types of UV radiation, UVA and UVB, act via different biological mechanisms and therefore need to be considered together. UVB is more energetic and primarily causes direct DNA damage in the upper layers of the skin; classic sunburn is a visible result of this damage. UVA, on the other hand, has a longer wavelength, penetrates deeper into the skin and causes oxidative stress. This damages collagen, elastin and cellular structures and contributes significantly to premature skin aging. Both types of radiation also increase the risk of skin cancer. That’s why effective sun protection is indispensable – every day, not just during summer holidays.
Did you know?
The UV Index mainly reflects fluctuating UVB radiation, while UVA radiation remains relatively constant throughout the year. Sunscreen is recommended from UV Index 3 – but even at lower levels, daily UVA protection is important, especially to help prevent skin ageing and pigmentation.
Dr. Ludger Kolbe, Chief Scientist for Photobiology and Hyperpigmentation at Beiersdorf
Ludger: Our skin doesn’t distinguish between a sunny summer’s day and a cloudy spring day. UVA radiation accounts for around 90-95% of total UV radiation and remains relatively constant throughout the year. It reaches the skin even when it’s cloudy, in the shade or through window glass. Depending on the phototype*, the skin may not show immediate warning signs, but the biological processes continue nonetheless. What really matters is the cumulative dose over years and decades. This continuous exposure affects not only skin aging and the risk of skin cancer, but also specifically the skin’s pigment system.
* The phototype describes the genetically determined sensitivity of the skin to UV radiation, as well as its tendency to sunburn and tan.
Did you know?
Up to 80% of UV rays can penetrate even through cloud cover. Sun protection is therefore a daily preventive measure, not solely dependent on sunny weather.
Ludger: Pigmentation is essentially a natural protective response of the skin. When the skin is exposed to UV radiation, specialized cells known as melanocytes stimulate the production of the skin pigment melanin. This process is regulated by the enzyme tyrosinase. The melanin is then transferred to surrounding skin cells and helps protect the skin from light-induced damage. However, with repeated UV exposure, this finely regulated system can become disrupted: pigmentation becomes uneven, leading to hyperpigmentation – darker areas of skin in the form of pigment spots. These occur especially in areas that are permanently exposed to the sun, such as the face or hands.
What is Hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common yet most complex dermatological conditions worldwide. It results from an overproduction of melanin and can be triggered by factors such as UV radiation, hormonal changes or genetics. Pigment spots are highly prevalent across all skin phototypes and can significantly affect quality of life.
Ludger: Absolutely. Consistent photoprotection is the foundation of any prevention and treatment strategy for hyperpigmentation. This is also confirmed by a global expert consensus on hyperpigmentation management, comprising ten of the world’s leading dermatologists. However, it is crucial to note that UV radiation is not the only relevant factor. Our latest research findings show that visible light plays a significantly greater role in skin pigmentation than previously assumed. It can not only trigger hyperpigmentation but also intensify it – existing dark spots, in particular, react very sensitively.
This explains why classic sunscreen products with UV filters alone are often not sufficient in cases of hyperpigmentation. Accordingly, sun protection should also take visible light into account, depending on the situation. In addition, targeted active ingredients such as Thiamidol® play an important role and are recommended by the global consensus as the preferred solution for hyperpigmentation. What is decisive is the interplay, because even the best active ingredient can only develop its full potential on the basis of consistent daily sun protection. And when it comes to effective protection, it is not just a question of ‘if’ but ‘how’: because only the right amount will ensure the stated sun protection factor is achieved.
Did you know?
Adults should apply at least two finger-lengths (index and middle finger) of sunscreen to their face and neck to make sure the sun protection factor is achieved – and reapply every 2-3 hours.
Ultra-light fluids, serums, sticks and more: Thanks to our R&D's formulation expertise, our products combine SPF with selected active ingredients, tailored to a wide range of needs and application preferences, for effortless daily use.
Kathrin takes us on a journey through the fascinating field of research and development at Beiersdorf. Before exploring Beiersdorf’s DNA, she did communications for HR topics (diversity, leadership, New Work), and previously oversaw financial communications at Beiersdorf for several years.
